| Highlights |
Things to see in Vientiane, Laos' capital, include That Luang Stupa, the most impressive stupa in the city, with a central stone structure of over 30m high, and built in 1566. Don't miss Wat Sisaket, built in 1818 by King Chao Anou and the oldest temple in Vientiane, with a number of unique features including the cloister, the frescos inside the Sim and a reported 6,840 Buddha images. Wat Phra Keo is the former temple of the Lao monarchy and has been converted into a museum, with excellent exhibits relating to the daily life of Lao Buddhists down the years. Anousavari Monument is situated on one of the city's major boulevards and is dedicated to all those who died in the years before the revolution. It has a marvellous painted ceiling. The Revolutionary Museum is a distinctive pink building which houses a collection of artefacts including paintings, drums and photographs depicting the history of the 1973 People's Revolution.
25 km (15 miles) away from the capital is the stone garden of Xiang Khoang. In the royal palace at Luang Prabang, the former capital of Laos, there is fine artwork, and the visitor can see gifts made to former kings. Nearby, the Phousi in the town centre is a huge rock which visitors can ascend for a panoramic view of the river. Several interesting excursions along the Mekong River are possible from Luang Prabang, including a visit to the Pak Ou Caves where statues of Buddha abound. Wat Xieng Khean, in Vientiane province near the ferry port to Thailand has an extraordinary temple which should be visited.
In the last twenty years all the joys of Laos have been opened up for the world to see. This is a country whose isolation has meant it has hardly changed for over a century - beautiful architecture perfectly preserved as the capital has been spared modern development. Enjoy a refreshingly laid-back lifestyle in sleepy villages where delicately baked baguettes and croissants are served for breakfast, contrasting sharply with typically Asian hot and spicy dishes later in the day. The cuisine epitomises the cultural diversity in Laos, as do the languages commonly spoken - Lao French, Vietnamese and English as well as tribal languages such as Meo. With something for everyone, a trip to Laos is truly not to be missed.
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| History |
Laos was occupied during the fourth and fifth centuries AD by Chinese people from the north. It was subject to strong Indian influence from the eighth century onwards and adopted Buddhism. For 200 years from the early 11th century, Laos was part of the Khmer Angkor Empire. It was during this period that the Lao people, who originated in Thailand, invaded the area and displaced the previously dominant Chinese. However, there is some evidence that the Mongol empire had some influence over events in the region in the late 13th and early 14th centuries, probably in alliance with the Angkor kingdom. Following the collapse of the Khmer empire, the independent kingdom of Lan Xang, which dates back to 1349, was established as a single entity bounded by Siam (Thailand), China to the north, Vietnam and the Mekong river, occupying roughly the same territory as modern-day Laos.
Populated by a mixture of ethnic Laos, Thais and various hill tribes, the Lan Xang empire lasted for three centuries while fighting off successive invasions from Vietnam, Siam (Thailand) and Burma. Internal power struggles in the 18th century were exploited by its neighbours, notably Siam which finally conquered Vientiane in 1779. The city was later destroyed by the Siamese and the remains of Lan Xang absorbed into Siam. The 19th century was a period of political turmoil in which rival powers with shifting alliances fought for control of the territory. The Siamese were the dominant power until the arrival of the French, who had already established a firm grip in neighbouring Vietnam, in the 1870s. Laos then became part of French Indo-China, which lasted until the 1950s, with the exception of a brief period of Japanese occupation during World War II.
Full independence was achieved in 1953 under the rule of King Sisavang Vong. The monarchy was opposed by former nationalist guerrillas organised into the Laotian Patriotic Front (LPF) whose fighters, the Pathet Lao, formed an alliance with the Viet Minh nationalists in neighbouring Vietnam to expel the residual French, and later to counter US influence in the region and the regimes supported by them. Despite repeated efforts, both before and after the communist takeover in 1975, the Chinese failed to exert any significant influence over the country. Indeed, after 1975, Laos became dependent on military and economic assistance from Vietnam, China's enemy. In the late 1980s, however, tension between China and Laos at last began to ease: diplomatic relations (which had been severed in the late 1970s) were restored in December 1987, and cultural and bilateral trade agreements signed.
A steady improvement has been maintained since then. Relations with Thailand and with the West have followed a similar pattern. Since 1988, there has been greatly expanded commercial contact between Thailand and Laos and the political relationship has improved. The dominant political figures in Laos since independence have been the veteran General Secretary of the Lao People's Revolutionary Party (the LPRP, whose armed wing is the Pathet Lao), Kaysone Phomvihane, and Prince Souphanouvong (the 'Red Prince'). The activities of the country's main opposition movements, the right-wing pro-royalist United Lao National Liberation Front and the United Front for the National Liberation of the Lao People, have been confined to minor armed rebellions from bases among the northern hill tribes (the cause of a series of minor bomb attacks in Vientiane during 2000 has yet to be discovered).
Souphanouvong retired from all his posts in March 1991, heralding a period of major political and economic reform. A new constitution was adopted in August 1991, under which elections for a new National Assembly took place in December 1992. A period of economic reform began as Laos sought to emulate the changes effected by its larger neighbours. Today Laos is a single party socialist republic. The country's relative isolation and lack of resources has made this difficult. Several regional economic co-operation agreements have been reached with Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam, and Laos has been admitted to the Association of South East Asian Nations, the former anti-communist regional bloc which has since reinvented itself as an economic organisation. In 1995, the Americans relaxed their aid embargo which dated back to the 1975 revolution. These developments were unfortunately offset by the 1997 Asian financial crisis which brought about a collapse in the value of the kip.
But Laos has seen little political evolution and the LPRP retains tight control. In 1998, changes in the upper echelons of the regime promoted Khamtay Siphandone, one of the few remaining veterans of the original Pathet Lao leadership, to the position of president and head of the LPRP politburo in place of the retiring Phoumsavanh. Elections to the National Assembly were held in February 2002: all candidates belonged to the LPRP, bar one (who was, nonetheless, government-approved). This did nothing to help the government's major internal problem: the growing insurgency by the Hmong people, a neglected ethnic minority located in the north of the country. A steady stream of violent attacks have been launched by the Hmong during past years.
Laos remains one of the world's poorest countries, and its predominantly agricultural economy has been unable to operate at much above subsistence level since the mid-1970s. The Laotian economy, whose problems are compounded by a shortage of skilled labour and foreign exchange, depends also on East European and Vietnamese support and lately from certain more economically developed countries.
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